The city of Kotah1 is situated on the right bank of the river Chambal, at the centre of south eastern Rajasthan, in the region known as Hadaoti, (the land at the Hadas). The Hadas are major branch of the great Chauhan clan of the Agnikula Rajputs. They had settled in the hilly terrain near Bijolian at Bambaoda in the 12th C. A.D. which became the capital of their pathar kingdom. The Hadas were feudatories of Mewar and soon extended their rule conquering Bundi in 1241 A.d. and Kotah in 1264 A.d. Some historians date both there events exactly 100 years later. The domain of the Hadas stretched from the hills of Bundi in the west to the Malwa plateaux in the east and to the south.
Hadaoti is a fertile tract of land watered by several rivers with rich soil giving it a verdant look unlike the rest of Rajasthan. The largest and the only perennial monsoon fed river of Rajasthan, the Chambal (Charinanyavati) finds mention in ancient texts like the Upnishads.It rises in the south and flows towards the north to join the river Jamuna. The river is geologically very old, as is evidenced by the 60 mile (96 km) long 300 to 400 ft. deep gorge which it has cut through the rock in the milenia by its relentless flow. The gorge ends near Kotah city.
Hadaoti has been the abode of early man as is clearly evident from several well preserved Upper Paleolithic period cave paintings which date back to 20,000 B.C. Legend links it to the epic periods of Ramayan and Mahabharta. Being a fertile and prosperous area, it was the ancient battle ground between invading tribes like the Hoons (Huns) and the Sakas (Scythians) and the entrenched empires of ancient India like that of the Imperial Guptas and of Emperor Harsha Vardhana. During the medieval period,Hadaoti attracted the of practically every powerful monarch of Delhi, for this region was one of the keys to the gates of Malwa and Gujarat. Numerous passage of arms, battles and sieges have left an imprint on this land. Nevertheless scores of beautiful temples and countless treasures in sculpted stone are spread over miles in the wilderness; spectacular fortresses and grim strong-holds, Beautiful palaces, temples and delicate pavilions – all testify to a basic stability of society and its tradition and the continuity of culture, despite the military and political upheavals.
The building of Kotah city and the State began in 1264 A.D. when Price Jait Singh of Bundi conquered this area and slew in battle the Bhillbrigand chieftain, Koteya. He raised the first battlements of the Garh (fort) by placing the severed head of the dead koteya, as foundation stone, in the time honoured tradition of those days. Today, the Sailor Ghazi Darvaza rises at this spot. As the fort grew, a small settlement outside the walls also sprang up. It came to be called Kotah, after the dead Bhill Chieftain. In due course the land and the state which later emerged in 1624 A.D. was also called as Kotah.
The state of Kotah was granted to Prince Madho Singh, the second son of Rao Rattan, Ruler of Bundi in 1624 A.D. by Emperor Jehangir. He became the first independent Ruler of Kotah from whom all descendents, including Rulers are called Madhani Hadas. This grant of kotah was formalized by Emperor Shah Jehan in 1631 AD.
The Garh or the Fort is today the foremost tourist attraction. It dates back to 1264 A.D. and in times grew into a large complex popularly called the City Palace. It is built in predominantly Rajput style of architecture. Each successive Ruler has added something to it. The Garh was the fulcrum of all activities in in the olden days. It was not only the residence of the King but also the seat of power and the government. All organs of the slate were housed inside it – the Treasury, the Arsenal, the Court, other Offices of State, a large Garrison of troops with stables for horses, stores, armoury kitchens and servants quarters. The presiding deity of the Royal Family, Lord Shri Brijnathji resides in the main temple here along with the Kuldevi Mata Ashapura and other gods and goddesses. All ceremonials and seva pujas were held here, as they continue to be observed today.
In keeping with the times, the entire City Palace complex is now administered by the Rao Madho Singh Museum Trust created in 1971. The museum shows the cultural heritage and military prowess of the Royal House of Kotah and of Hadaoti. Some of the finest examples of the famous Kotah Kalam or the Kotah School of Miniature Paintings can be seen in the Palace, in the Mahals and the Art Gallery. The museum has a good collection of paintings, vintage photographs, royal regalia, silver and gold howdahs, objects d’art. arms and armour, banners and flags and a wild-life trophies.
The entrance to the Garh is via the Naya Darwaza, build by Maharao Umed Singh II in C. 1890 A.D. It is flanked by the Hawa Mahal and leads to the Jaleb Chowk. The big Jantar Burj looms over this large chowk (square), with the Nakkar Khana Darwaza on the east. To the west of the chowk are the Kunwarpada ka Mahal (Palace of the Crown Prince), the Zenana Mahal and the Hathia pol (elephant gate) having the typical Hadaoti motif gives entry to the Raj Mahal. The Raj Mahal is the place where the king was anointed and coronated on the Raj Gaddi (throne).This an open Mahal, with its glittering mirrored ceiling, walls and pillars. The King sat and held darbars (court) with all his umraos, sirdars and jagirdars, high civil officials and military officers. Fine medieval mirror work with gold and silver, some 18th C. A.D. wall paintings in blue-green hues showing scenes of Krishna Leela, beautiful Kotah damsels and portraits of all Kotah Kings decorate this place. Across the large courtyard is the Akkade Ka Mahal (wrestling arena) where now are housed various exhibits, howdahs and palanquins, and regalia of state. A life- size elephant and horse show the decorations and trappings. The Arms Gallery next to the Raj Mahal displays the Insignia of Mahi-o-Maratib, and arms and armour,while the Art Gallery displays old miniature paintings and vintage photographs. The Wild Life Gallery has on view various game trophies, is a flight of steps down. Next to the Raj Mahal on the east in the Bada Mahal. The delicate stonework, the fluted canopies. and the fine elephant shaped brackets supporting carved balustrades give the “palace an air of light elegance”. This was the private apartments of the King. The Royal bed-chamber is full of paintings. The tibara (pillared open verandah) adjacent has a melange of miniature paintings of various schools. Beautiful marble friezes, an ornate 17 C. A.D. ceiling, a lovely balcony facing east called Suraj Gokh having gold-and-crystal work. A marble seat with lovely coloured glass inlay and a white marble frieze are the attraction here. Across a couple of open terrace is the Chhattra Mahal, another room filled with some rate miniature painted on the walls and ceiling.
The imposing red sand-stone latticed Zenana Mahal was built by Maharao Umed Singh II for this two queens in early 1900s. Below lies the small but pretty DikhushaBardoli Bagh, a garden in charbagh style with a grand white marble Chhattri.
The old town of Kotah was encircled and defended on three sides by a moat full of water and on the forth side towards the west by the river Chambal. Massive crenellated walls with strong battlements and bastions formed two defence rings behind the moat.They were first erected by Rao Ram Singh in the 1690s A.D. and were later enlarged and strengthened when Zalim Singh was Diwan, The actual work was executed by Dalel khan, between 1790-1800 A.D. As already mentioned elsewhere no stronger, thicker and higher city defence walls encircling a city exist anywhere except the famous walls of Theodosius in Constantinople (Istanbul). There were over 100 cannons sited on the bastions to guard Kotah and they kept the city secure. It was never conquered.The famous, Jwala Top, 18 ft. long was the largest cannon forged in Kotah and can be seen outside the city walls near the lake.
Kishore Sagar, the picturesque man-made lake, adds beauty to Kotah. This lake or tank was built in 1346 A.D. by the Bundi Prince Dheer Deh.It is popularly called the bada Talao. The island pavilion in it is called Jagmandir. It was built around 1740 A.D. by the Maharani Brij Kunwar of Kotah, who was a princess of Mewar and was married to Maharao Durjan Sal. Below the bund is the Chhattra Bilas Garden, which is beautiful sight in spring with a profusion of flowers. A canal adorns the garden. The nearby Brij Bilas Palace today houses the Government Museum and the Art Gallery. The Chhattries of the Sar Bagh are on the other side. These chhattries or cenotaphs commemorate the memory of past kings and have a beautiful carvings and friezes. The rest of the area is a large public park with green lawns full of old trees. In the middle of the park is the lovely Crossthwait Institute, now Sri Umed Club. A cricket ground is in front of it. Next to this is the Maharao Umed Singh Stadium. The English Cemetery, on the west is where most of the English officers and civilians killed in 1857 A.D. are interested. It is well cared for the Kotah Heritage Society.
The Umed Park across the road has a magnificent bronze statue of H.H. Maharao Sir Umed Singh II (1889-1940 A.D.) – the builder of modern Kotah. Amongst the many beautiful buildings, the pride of place after the Garh goes to Umed Bhawan Palace built in 1905 A.D. This was the modern residence of the Rulers of Kotah and was designed by the Sir Swinton Jacob RE, who made many other famous palaces and buildings in Rajasthan. It has been turned into a luxury hotel now and is managed by ITC Welcome-Heritage Group. Next comes Brijraj Bhawan, formerly the British Residency, built around 1840 A.D. on the bank of the river commanding a beautiful view. It became the State Guest House in 1900 A.D. and numerous VIPs from Viceroy Lord Curzon, F.M. Lord Kitchener. Her Majesty Queen mary of Great Britain, other Royalty both Indian as well as European and guests have stayed here – including the Prime Minister of India. It is now the residence of the present Maharao of Kotah besides being a Heritage Hotel. The Herbert College, now the Government College, built of white stone is another striking building. Opposite is the Military Area built in the 1930s, with some of the best barracks for troops and houses for officers in the whole of India.
Kotah has many temples and havelist. The most famous temple is that of Mathureshji and the oldest one is Neelkanth Mahadeo, belonging to the 10th C. A.D. Inside, neat the Sabzi Majidi (vegetable market) are the tombs of Kesar Khan and Dokhar Khan, two Pathan brothers who had seized Kotah for a brief interlude between 1531-1551 A.D. Their yoke was thrown off by Rao Surjan of Bundi after a brief bloody battle.
Besides the river, opposite the big Thermal Power Plant, is the Chambal Garden. This verdant spot provides a much needed place for citizens and children to enjoy fresh air and take in the view of the river. A boat service is also provided for people to take a short pleasure cruise on the river. As one progresses up-river the walls of the Chambal gorge rise higher. In the olden days one could see wild life including tiger, panther and sloth bear in comfort from the boat. The river was full of crocodiles and they could be seen basking on the sandbanks or on the rocks. By 1960 they were almost exterminated. Now, thanks to timely steps taken to save them, they are making a come-back and can be viewed fairly regularly. Sadly there no tigers left to see.
The Chambal Barrage, a dam built to store water for irrigation, was built in 1960. With this, the level of the river has risen by over 120 ft. near the dam and so onwards upriver. Next to the Chambal Gardens is the famous Adhar Shila, a huge boulder slanting and appearing to fall in the river. Only this has so far not happened! The Amar Niwas. A pleasure place built on the bank of the river, now lies half submerged in the waters on account of the rising levels. The old Hanuman temple, now known as Godavari Dham and the Surya Mandir are close by. A favorite picnic spot for the locals is the Bhitariya Kund, with its 18th C. A.D. Shivaling and the idol of a Panch Mukhi Ganesha.
Six miles (10 km.) east of Kotah, towards the industrial area, lies Kansuan Temple (karneshwar Mahadeo). Legend has that it was supposed to be the ashram of Kanva Rishi of ancient times and fame. A stone inscription dating back to 740 A.D. says it was built by Raja Shivgan Maurya. Beyond Kansuan another 4 miles away is Umed Ganj, with it twin lakes and a pleasure garden with a small palace and a pavilion in the middle of the lake. This was built by Maharao Umed Singh I (1771 – 1819 A.D.). Until the early 1950s there used be a dense forest around it where all kinds of wild game was found including tiger and panther. The place abounded with cheetal deer. Also, now all this has been destroyed. Further down the road, two miles away is the ancient shrine of Dadh Devi Mata, which is still surrounded by a grove of old trees. A natural spring bubbles in the kund in front of the temple. Kaithoon village, the weaving centre where the world famous Kotah Doria sarees and cloth is made is about four miles away. It has the only known temple dedicated to Vibhushan, the brother of the Ravana the Rakshas King.
The old Borkhandi Bridge, 7 miles east of Kotah on the main highway to Gwalior dates to 1818 A.D. It was built by the British as a gift to the Kotah State for help rendered in the Pindari Wars. It is commonly known as Tod’s Bridge, named after Col. James Tod.s
To the west across the river Chambal lies Abhera Mahal, another pleasure palace built on the lake. In the olden days, it contained about 30-40 crocodiles and they were fed offal and would come on being called. Just below the bund of the lake is the small shrine of Karni Mata with a pretty garden. At nearby Nanta village stands the old palace of Jhala Zalim Singh. The Shrine of Kaal Bhairav dating back to 14th C. A.D. is situated here.
The lovely temples of Keshorai Patan, 7 miles to the north of Kotah lie situated on the river on its left bank. They were built by Rao Chhattar Sal of Bundi in 1653 A.D. Stone inscriptions dating to 35 A.D. and 93 A.D. exist nearby.
On the main highway to Jhalawar, 14 miles south of Kotah is the village of Alnia. In the olden days there was good forest around here and it was famous for tiger shikar. Across the railway line, is an island in the Alnia stream, which can be walked across during most of times. A group of rock shelters on it have lovely paintings of Upper Paleolithic age dating back to 20,000 B.C. They are vivid and in good condition showing various animals and pre-historic man.
Towards the south on the road to Bardoli and Rawat Bhata Dam, 14 miles away is the big chasm of Gaiparnath, with a Shiv temple set deep inside the gorge. It offers a spectacular view of the forest and the rugged beauty of the kerais or cliffs of the Chambal valley. Further on about 10 miles away the road winds through the hills of the Darah Wild Game Sanctuary, through the forested ghat section. The small cluster of theBeautiful Bardoli Temples besides the road has some of the best sculptures and architecture to be seen in Rajasthan – dating to 8th – 9th C. A.D. A couple of miles further on is the big Rawat Bhata Dam and the vast Rana Pratap Sagar. Across the lake is the Nuclear Power Station, The big pile of Bhainsrodgarh Fort rising sheer up the cliff overlooking the river, dominates the field and the valley with wooden hills encircling it.
The Mukundarah Hills National Park 35 miles south of Kotah was once the famous hunting preserve of the Kotah Kings. It was rich in flora and fauna. The range of Aravali hills enclose it running SW to NW. It is known as Darah, which means a pass, named after Rao Mukund Singh of Kotah. It is the only pass between the rivers Chambal and the Kalisind – a distance of 50 odd miles. Darah has old palaces and fortifications, with the ruins of ancient Bhim Chauri temples. The temple is the linked to the legendary Bhimsen, the Pandav Prince of Mahabharat era. A stone inscription dating to c. 450 A.D. tells us that a battle was fought here between the Hoons and the forces of Imperial Guptas.
Darah was the finest shikargarh of Kotah State, and Rulers hunted here since 1700 A.D. upto the 1950s. The jungles, the hills, the cliffs and the wild tiger, boar and deer have all been vividly drawn and painted with rare artistry by the Masters of the Kotah Kalam. The vast jungles sheltered the wild buffalo and the rhino in the olden days up to the late 1700s or so – as is evident from the paintings wild life has disappeared – by unchecked poaching and the jungles being destroyed. It is all so very sad.
